Heinz

I put a Blue H&T and a flood in a freezer for testing. The signal was quite ok but I have a Shelly about 2m away for the shelly Blu H&T and the wifi is about 5-10 meters away from the router. below you can see the test I did. I would just make sure when you are turning on a compressor where the power will be pulled from is the shelly just a trigger to turn it on and off or will the power flow though the shelly ?

not sure i understand what you are trying to ask here

have you tried to update the blu device with the shelly BLE Debug app ?

awsome

what network protection do you have on your network. Shelly devices currently support up till WPA2

on the Microtik system can you see the shelly device try to connect to the router? from the logs, it seems unable to manage a handshake to the DHCP server. are your wifi channels fixed on 9 and 12 and is the wifi on WPA2. could you make a test Vlan and SSID for the 2 devices that are not able to connect. I have a feeling its linked to the WPA2 and or wifi channels as its not able to even make contact to the DHCP server

hmm @Olsche you know more about the finer details roller shutters than I do

What i sometimes check is on the phone I make sure that Bluetooth is on and I can pair to the shelly device directly. From there go to the Debug app and try again. I had it a few times when my phone was paired to many Blu devices.

ahhh ok I was wondering -75°C damm thats insane. 😅 but now it makes sense so from -20°C to +75°C. if that's the working temps for the CR123A Battery would it be the same for the Battery in the Shelly H&T ?

oh dam -75 thats alot

Hmm, das ist seltsam, das ist eher ein Wifi SSID Problem, bei dem sich das Gerät beim Einschalten nicht mit dem Netzwerk verbinden kann, weil das Signal schlecht ist. Und die Tatsache, dass es nicht funktioniert, wenn er es zurückbringt, ist auch sehr seltsam. Wir brauchen mehr Informationen oder ein paar Bilder davon, wie er es im Arbeitszimmer und dann in der Garage einbaut.

What network device are you using?

Communication between the most shelly devices apart from the Blu devices only communicates over wifi. Wifi and Bluetooth ranges are about the same distance, give or take a few meters as the run on the same frequency. if I'm not mistaken the Bluetooth class of the shelly is class 2 so its around 10m where the Wifi would be around 30-45 meters ( depending on the indoor environment) how far is your devices from the Wifi AP ?

when i checked the API documents https://shelly-api-docs.shelly.cloud/gen2/Devices/Gen2/ShellyPlusPlugS/ to get the stats via the API call I used http://10.10.50.226/rpc/shelly.getstatus?compnent=wifi This then gave me the stats of the wifi check if that works for you. The only thing you need to change is the IP address

you got pictures of how you connected it now would be cool if you do

awsome so it was just a loose cable at the end of the day?

Ok, wenn ich dich richtig verstehe. Du schaltest es im Arbeitszimmer ein und installierst es in der App mit einem WLAN-Passwort und alles funktioniert? Dann trennst du die Verbindung und installierst es in der Garage und das Gerät ist nicht online? Wenn das der Fall ist, wie sieht dann das Netzwerksignal in der Garage aus? Ist es die gleiche SSID mit dem gleichen WLAN-Passwort? Welchen Wifi-Router verwendest du? Als du das Gerät zurück ins Arbeitszimmer gebracht hast, hat es wieder funktioniert oder nicht?

I did a similar test with an i4 and a switch. In theory yes it can work with a switch but if you want to have the i4 to work correctly with bottom mode I would suggest to get the wall switches https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-wall-switch-1-2-and-4 I did a test with the i4 and a switch. First I made sure I was on the latest firmware. When you then change the input mode from switch to button you have to toggle the switch quite fast to get the 1 click or 2 or even 3 click to see the state of the input. The thing is with a switch it sends continuous electricity whereas a button only provides a small pulse of electricity. I made a video. Both button one and button 4 are on a similar type switch. Button 1 is in button mode, button 4 is in switch mode. you can then see the button one change between one, two clicks, and even one long when I just left the switch on. WhatsApp Video 2024-08-06 at 11.29.17.mp4

Apart from it having a signal issue but very small one it worked for me. I added the flood and H&T for comparison temps Only thing I would want to test out is the alarm function when the flood is in the freezer.

it could but because he mentioned its not showing the SSID something is odd

hmm this is strange could you post a pic of how you installed it ? There must be a underlining issue that can be solved

I added a Flood and H&T in the freezer will share results in the morning 🙂

thats also true i will be placing one in mine later today and see what happens

would be awesome if this could be shared

brown outs and spokes are never good for any electronic device. If they are going on and on the whole time I would maybe set them to a static IP address that they don't need to obtain the ipaddress from the DHCP server when its online or offline. This might save the issue that the device called out for a Ipaddress and then does not get one and sits in limbo.