Dry relay help

[Baldog]

Hi all, 

im trying to link our keypad access control into the dry relay to trigger the power coming on to the room when the keypad is unlocked. I thought It would be a case of connecting the yellow wire to the n/c wire on the pad then to sw1 on the relay however nothing happens. I’ve tried various different ways however nothing. Can anyone shed a light on what I’m doing wrong? Thanks! 

 

[ByteBard494F54]

Just so I understand the process here on what you want to try to do. 

when the door is opened or you put a key into the keypad, do you want the power to come on in the room? The SW will then change the input state of the relay to add power to the room. 



 

[Baldog]

Yes that’s exactly what I’m trying to do 🙂 

[ByteBard494F54]

ok I might know but a test would need to be done. 

im guessing you just need to find the right cable that triggers the SW to change the relay input state. My first guess would be the 12v current that is sent to the lock to open the lock. This should then change the state of the relay. You should be able to hear the relay open and close or see the state change on the device. 

the only question I have is if the current sent to the door latch is a that would also be sent to the SW1. But there should be a setting in the APP that allows for the signal input. I don't have any of these type of devices at my house so I cant test it myself I would need to go to the store to get a simular setup. 

[Baldog]

What you are saying is exactly what I’ve been thinking/doing. The lock strike powers when the keypad is open. I’ve taken a wire from the lock to sw1 thinking that when It triggers the relay would work however nothing. I was also thinking that there might be a setting on the unit however there isn’t or not that I can find. I’m sure other will have done something similar some how. It’s driving me mad not knowing 

[ByteBard494F54]

Im quite sure people have done the same. It could be a small setting. I would only be able to mirror the same setup next week. maybe before I get anything will check if someone has solved your issue 

 

[Olsche]

The SW inputs on the Pro1 are not without potential, there is approx. 1/2 of the input voltage on L.

It's dangerous to think you can just use SW for this case.

It is helpful to provide better pictures and more information as well as a connection sketch - as you planned.


But I now think that either a coupling relay (or comparable) is necessary or perhaps a Shelly Plus Uni with an additional contactor may be the better choice

 

[Baldog]

Thanks @Olsche I thought that the pro was decoupled from the mains power and could be considered dry contacts? 
 

I was trying to eliminate any further things being added to the system and was hoping I could get this working this way some how. 

[tvbshelly]

As I see it, there are no dry contacts here.

Pls. have a look at the wiring diagram:

https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-pro-1-v1#ShellyPro1V1(SPSW-101XE16EU)-Basicwiringdiagram(≠)

The switches SW1, SW2 are operated with the same voltage that is used to power the Shelly: L2(B) - Device power supply live (110-240 V) wire. 

[Mkn]

The power (L+N) goes to the bottom terminals. The top ones (The green coloured terminal) are potential free.

It took me some time to figure this out, and it was my son - an electrician - who pointed the fact out. There was no measurable voltage between the terminal contacts, just a huge resistance (=insulation) in an inactive state. Activating the switch from the app short-cut the terminal contact. So: The "dry" contacts are the green top ones. It is running perfectly, short-cutting a circuit that prevents my ground-source heat pump from heating the house.

I have no clue what the middle terminals can do. For us, mere mortals, the image on the side of the module is a true mess, everything important is missing from it.

 

Edited October 24 by Mkn
typo

[Heinz]

https://community.shelly.cloud/gallery/category/37-shelly-pro-1/

Here are some use cases/wire diagrams that will help you