Linwood

The drivers are LiFud LF-GLD065YS. I control the lights through Home Assistant. There is no physical AC switch, but instead I use Caseta Pico's (wireless remotes) wall mounted, which Home assistant senses and turns into commands to the 0-10v dimmer. They also permit voice and web control through home assistant. The drivers supposedly tur noff at 0.3v and below, so it is possible (if I had gotten it working) that the shelly at 0% or 1% would have output low enough voltage to turn the drivers off, but I never got that far. I also feel better physically turning off the AC to the drivers when not in use, so if I had used the Shelly I would also have put something like a +1 in there to control power to the drivers separately from the 0-10v dimming voltage. But this was all complicated by something not working properly inside the shelly. I could hold it in my hand, with wires very firmly attached, and tip it one way and then another and have the lights be on full and dim. I never found the cause other than finding it was inside the unit. I opened it and could find nothing loose, and in a brief try after closing it back up it worked, but by then since I didn't fix anything visible I no longer trusted it and returned it to Amazon.

This is terrific. I just made the rounds and updated 9 devices installed plus that previously bricked one; fast, didn't have to have a discussion about rooms and icons and such, and they just worked. I have another half dozen or so window sensors going to install later, so this is very handy. I do wish that the informational packets sent to home assistant that include battery level included firmware version, so I could get a quick view when updates are needed, but otherwise I'm all set. Again... thank you thank you.

I was not aware of it. I just installed it, nothing. Checked and the (newly installed a few days ago when trying to recover) battery was dead. Replaced it, and then the debug app saw it and could update it. I wonder if it was hung in some state that was battery-hungry. At any rate, it now has fresh firmware and a fresh battery. That tool is a LOT easier to use than the app. Going to update the other button devices now. Thank you thank you. And please... consider shipping these with batteries NOT installed!

OK, but your answer shows the kind of terminology confusion I had. I don't think there is any "pairing" with the gateway. These BLE devices just send a (not sure this is technically the right term) broadcast message that says "I have an event" and any (and all) gateways forward it. A BLU device is not paired with a gateway (emphasis on singular). If there are two nearby, and you remove either, it still works. This is where I was being thrown, I thought that app was trying to actually pair it with a (again, singular) gateway, which is a huge loss in redundancy. I do not think that is true. .... To date I've found nothing I need the app for on wifi devices, and only need it for firmware updates on the BLE devices. I applaud shelly for allowing local control and Home Assistant integration -- I wish they would also allow firmware reporting and updating via the wifi gateways from home assistant and not require their cloud based app (which has a huge long list of permissions).

Oh... the as-shipped battery shows 100% even with that low voltage. For whatever that's worth

I think I know more. I did not have spare buttons (and they are not available on Amazon where I can get them quickly). I did however have a big stack of Blu Door/window sensors, which I assume are similar. I just worked with two separate ones. One had a battery that measured (out of the device) 2.8v and one 2.88v. A new battery measures 3.22v. A new battery under a 100 ohm load measures about 2.85-2.9v, the included batteries dropped to 2.6v. I don't know what the standards are (if there are any and I think not) for judging depletion, but I believe that Shelly is shipping pretty depleted batteries (or at least they arrive depleted), and I think mine failed when it did the firmware update. These d/w sensors were direct from Shelly in the US. I've done two of the door/window sensors now without issue after swapping the battery. I know these are cheap, but it's annoying to throw away a "new" battery, but I think I will do so on all the other devices before trying a firmware update. ============================= Now on to more weird aspects. When I did the firmware update it said I needed it, but did not tell me what the old version was. I did the following with the second: - Asked for firmware check - Paired the device - Cancelled out (I hoped at this point the info or firmware screen would show current version) - Started again - Was told that it was up to date BUT then it proceeded to tell me to update - Updated (or did it?) - Said it was up to date Very confusing what's actually happening there, I have no idea if I just updated or not, since I can't apparently see the FW version? I don't think I will update my buttons though... they are working, I have no extras (well, I did, but it was bricked). Sad that I don't trust it. There really should be a way to recover.

Update: This question was based on a bad assumption. When I ran the (Android) Shelly app and added the BLU device, it flashed a warning that there was no gateway device to pair with. Except I have many such, just not in the app as I haven't found any purpose in the app (and some issues with it). So I conflated these, and tried adding a gateway, then paired (with the phone though I was thinking it was pairing with the gateway). The pairing with the phone is apparently used for the firmware update, maybe other things. There is no pairing with the gateway. So... never mind.

I'm confused. Is it necessary to actually pair a BLU button with some gateway? The first couple I have I simply pushed the button, and home assistant heard the message. I have Plus gateways all around the house. This worked. But in the application when i tried doing an update, it wanted me to specify a paired plus device. I picked one at random thinking it was just to do the firmware update, now I'm not so sure. I really don't want to use the shelly app as I have no need for it in most cases. The only thing I found so far is a need for updating firmware from it for the BLE devices, the wifi devices I can update from Home Assistant or the web interface. But... when I use it for firmware updates, and specify a paired gateway, am I locking them together in some way? Or do events just broadcast as they did at first by default? I only buy hardware I can use with local only control from Home Assistant. I don't mind briefly using the app for firmware updates, but if I have to manage these things from the app on an ongoing basis, that's bad. Especially since I found it giving different settings on the 2PM (e.g. the relay names are different, and I was very concerned the wrong one from the app would be pushed down and break entity naming in home assistant). What actually happens with this pairing? Linwood

Got Blu 1 (actually got 5 of them0. Got them all working with Home Assistant. Decided to check firmware, so added first one to shelly app (which I do not use generally, but have on Android). Jumped through the hoops and update started. Bar stopped and disappeared but that device still showed updating. And kept showing it, left phone beside it and did some other things, came back after several minutes, no change. Finally closed the app. Couldn't get anything to happen with the device, no tone when I hit the button. Pulled and replaced battery - no change. Tried deleting it so I could re-add to application (this appears to have been a mistake given another forum entry). Could not re-add. Swapped battery for known good - no change. Pulled battery, put it back, pushed button for 30+ seconds - no change. Pulled battery, pushed button, put in battery while holding - no change. It would appear the attempted firmware update bricked it. I should note that the battery, despite being brand new, showed 100% on first couple pushes, then fell to 58% before the attempted update. I'm wondering if it was shipped with an almost dead battery which died during the update and caused a problem? Is there a way to recover from a firmware update failure? (This seems a recurring problem, I got one Blu 1 with completely DOA battery, and 2 of the ones I just installed already show less than 100%, one 83%, one 82%. I think that these are being shipped with weak/dead batteries. Anyone else seeing that? ) Linwood

It turns out that the 0-10v I had is defective. The LED driver actually does work with a "sink" type device including the Shelly, but the Shelly did not work consistently. I found this out when I was testing with a meter, and would move the device - it would work. Move it a bit differently it stopped. Picked it up and found some positions worked, some did not. All wires tight. Opened it up, didn't find anything loose. Put it together and it seemed to be working in all positions but I no longer trusted it since I did not actually fix anything, so returned it. The new device looks like a much better choice but didn't see it available in the US, found something about the same from zooz. The included relay is a very nice feature.

Just to make sure I am understanding this correctly -- the 0-10v is purely dimmer from min to max. To turn the light off, I need a separate shelly wired to control power to the light (while leaving power to the dimmer on). That seems... sad, too bad there's no line relay available as well, but there's not that I see. Right?