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1-10v dimming - need adequate instructions


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Read through several of the topics below and having the same problem with my 1-10v Shelly, but the responses seem a bit fuzzy...or I am.

Trying to use my Shelly to provide dimming input for my Mean Well LED supplies that do support 1-10v dimming.

It seems, reading through the responses below that the Shelly doesn't provide a 1-10v signal. You need to provide a 10v DC which the Shelly converts to PWM. 

Ok, fair enough. How exactly is this wired if I supply my own 1-10v DC? If I were to guess this would be wired in series with the 1-10v output and dimming leads to my power supply, but wanted to make sure. 

Also, some clarification on what S1 and S2 ports do please. Do they provide AC side shutoff for the LED supply you are controlling or somethin else?

 

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Some remarks to this (sad) story:

(a) Industrial standards
There is a significant difference between the two standards ‚0-10V‘ and ‚1-10V‘. 0-10V dims the LED driver to (nearly) zero output, but leaves its supply  (mains) active. 1-10V standard dims between 10 and 100% and needs to switch off power at the primary side of the driver.

Please have a look at this:

https://www.slec.com.au/knowledge-center/controls/1-10v-dimming-vs-0-10v-dimming

Obviously, you bought a Shelly plus 0-10V Dimmer to control a 1-10V driver?

(b) Wiring and operation
Did you ever read the manual? Some say a blurb is included in the package…

Any way: Wiring instructions are to be found here:

https://community.shelly.cloud/gallery/category/45-shelly-plus-0-10v-dimmer/

Two inputs are available (and necessary) to obtain two-button dimming with up and down pushbuttons.

(c) Additional components
The Shelly plus 0-10V Dimmer is working in „sinking mode“: The device is comparable with a variable resistor (potentiometer) which regulates the current flow by means of on/off switching. The latter is called ‚pulse width modulation‘ (PWM). A clever solution - but your selected driver must be comfortable with this. Some LED drivers want to have „real“ potentiometers for control - they show malfunction with impulses. 

Other drivers need a control voltage instead of a variable resistance. With such a device you’ll need an auxiliary voltage source (10 V DC), which is connected in series with the control output of the Shelly. In most cases a Shelly Add-On plus may be used to deliver this voltage:

IMG_1078.thumb.jpeg.90faf1a44a04116cca5a05d6bc4f447b.jpeg

But your LED driver must accept the PWM signal! If the driver needs a smooth DC voltage, you should use the Shelly Dimmer 0/1-10V Gen3 instead. This device delivers a DC control voltage between 1 and 10 V DC and is equipped with a relay to switch the primary side of the driver to cut power off. In addition it measures power consumption of the lamp(s).

 

Edited by thgoebel
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I appreciate the effort in your response, and am not the type to insult an internet stranger who's making an effort to explain a problem, and I have no idea if you are affiliated with Shelly. 

However, I specifically asked what is required for the driver to do it's advertised job, which is seems it's not capable of. The driver has clear markings and yes, I've read the instructions (have you?) and they are terrible. 

I clearly understand the limits of the common 3 in 1 dimming. The limitations of not being able to 100% dim are not an industry standard but a limitation of the sensitivity of the circuit at it's floor. I've fixed this issue using a simple relay circuit to cut mains. This is the common way to do this with large Mean Wells in commercial applications.

I'm not buying more Shelly addons because I don't trust the products. Also, while I mentioned what I was planning on doing with the product it has no bearing on what it's advertised to so, which is to provide a 0-10v via mains power via a wireless app. It's clearly not doing this, ergo conversations about PWM are irrelevant. If I wanted to go that route there are better PWM native controllers. As it is, I consider the product false advertising. 

Last, consider the number of posts identical to mine. When lots of people are confused we cant all be morons.

Edit: there's a reason the Dali was introduced. Products like this.

Appreciate your time. 

 

Edited by wseaton
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@wseaton: your problem is: your mindset! Stubborn and unlogical behaviour will never solve a problem. Thgoebel really tried to explain the technical background and a solution (Thanks for this helpful input) but you just want to blame others. You don't need instructions, you need education....Go on, but go alone!!!!

Edited by NF1
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@wseaton: @thgoebel explained everything you need to know and also showed the reasons why this device cannot work as you would like. He also provided a suggested solution. There seems to be a bit of a lack of understanding on your part at the moment

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