MichaelLankes Posted October 13 Share Posted October 13 (edited) Hello there, I have used a lot of Shelly devices already in our house for controlling shutters, this is the first time I am trying to use one for a light (which I thought would be simpler, right?). This is the physical switch, for now I want to control just the lower one (with the integrated red light).  these are the internals of the lower switch: So the inner cables on the top side are the N / L power connection, the outer cables on the top side are connecting the power to the 2nd switch above. And the lower connections are going to the light. This is how I connected my Shelly 2PM (I am using the 2 PM because at some point I want to also connect the 2nd Switch above, but first things first...)   There are WAGO clamps on those T connections to power the Shelly, that I was just too lazy to paint in, so just imagine a very clean and proper installation 😉 Here is what I get from that installation: Physical switch off AND shelly switch off = no red lamp and light off. Thats cool.   Physical switch on AND shelly switch on = red lamp and light on. Thats also cool.   Physical switch on and shelly switch off = red lamp on and light off. Thats almost cool. The light works as expected, however it would be even better, if the red lamp was off as well.   Physical switch off and shelly switch on = red lamp off and light off. Thats not cool. I would have liked to have both the red lamp and the light on. Can anybody help me with this, what am I missing? Thanks a lot! Michael  Edited October 13 by MichaelLankes Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelLankes Posted October 13 Author Share Posted October 13 Oh and one more thing: both physical and shelly switches should override each other, meaning: if I switched off the physical button and then switch on the Shelly, it should switch the light on. And if the shelly was switched on and I switch off the physical button the light should switch off. At least this is how it works on my shutters without any issues. If the physical button is switched off and the light was switched on by the shelly, I would have to switch on and off the physical button to switch the light off.  Hope that makes any sense… Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members thgoebel Posted October 13 Members Share Posted October 13 (edited) IMHO, the grey part with the glow lamp can be removed from the switch. Please try this and check the behaviour again! For a deeper insight, I would need the type number of the switch and the manufacturer. Or a picture of the back of the switch without wires. Edited October 13 by thgoebel Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelLankes Posted October 13 Author Share Posted October 13 Thanks for the quick reply, I think this is the switch:  https://www.busch-jaeger.de/online-katalog/detail/2CKA001022A0656  If possible I would prefer to keep the control lamp in there to show if the switch is active or not. Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelLankes Posted October 13 Author Share Posted October 13 Ok, looking at this diagram of the switch it seems like the control lamp will always be locked to the physical switch‘s position. However I still don’t understand why I can’t switch on the light with the shelly when the physical switch is in off position… Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelLankes Posted October 13 Author Share Posted October 13 Ah, sorry, talking to myself here, but the switch also disconnects the live wire, that’s why I can’t switch via shelly when physical switch is off. Sorry, will take a closer look next time before asking here… Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinz Posted October 17 Share Posted October 17 yes this is the only unfortunate draw back to making this type of switch smart. i replaced the light switch and then automated the light switch. I then have a small LED light above the bathroom door when the light is on the LED is on. I like seeing if a light is on in the bathroom when the door is closed this way I was able to have it work and was quite simple to implement Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members thgoebel Posted October 17 Members Share Posted October 17 With this circuit diagram you could solve the issue: Â Key is to use only one leg of the switch (SPST) and to activate the Shelly input via neutral potential. With this trick the control lamp is in parallel to the lamp. Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinz Posted October 17 Share Posted October 17 i will try that  Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinz Posted October 17 Share Posted October 17 yup that worked perfectly for me Quote Translate Revert translation? English (American) Finnish French German Italian Portuguese (European) Spanish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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