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Martin_

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  1. Yes, there is no UI consistency. Its confusing for the user in my opinion. Having a navigation bar is not a bad thing, while I at the same time understand those who donโ€™t want it. Give us the option for the bottom bar visibility and behaviour. 1. Always on 2. Auto hide in HA 3. Swipe up to show A feature a really want: I would like to be able to lock the display so it doesnโ€™t change dashboard when swiping left and right and keep the bottom bar to change dashboard. Then we could also use swipe left and right in HA with sliders. Along with bottom bar option of course. Also would be nice if the white Shelly logo could change color for different statuses. No wifi, no cloud, update available etc, and when pressing the logo, we get info about the status. Logo pops up if hidden if there is an issue.
  2. Hi, been trying firmware b4, seems good so far. Have som small things: - There seems to be a "bug" with the screen auto off timer. When using the screen (finger is on screen), it still dims down (5 sec delay), and even if scrolling, the timer for screensaver starts even though the finger is on the screen and shuts the screen off. - "Turn off screen when idle" setting disappear when choosing to turn off "Screen Auto brightness" Please keep the setting available, sometimes we need to set custom screen brightness but we want the screen to turn off aswell. - A a timer for the "dim screen" would be really great, 5 sec as now is a bit fast, could we get a setting for it? Keep it up!
  3. Yes, and the help, but not all the time. I often use this feature to lessen the heat of LED spots, or sync 2 different lights. And often even with calibration, the place % where actual dimming happens is different on different suppliers or load. You can have the same light, but a different number lights on 2 different places, and you can get different light strength. So, it's a basic feature to have on any "smart" dimmer, and very useful one when setting up different lights (types, brands etc) or groups.
  4. Yeah, some form of acknowledgement would be a good thing. Now we have wishes but no roadmap or response or action The only outcome with no responses is that no-one will post, it only feels as this category is for show and not for actual customer interaction. Implement a roadmap section in the forum or similar for our suggestions (and move our posts to that category) with categories: 0. Open (Not responded) 1. Implementing in next firmware (With planned date) 2. Future firmware implementation (With planned date, Q1 2025 or similar for each post) 3. Will not implement At least we will know if anyone is listening and we get clear communication, that is never bad.
  5. Absolutely agree. Shelly, so many people want the exactly same thing. Just give us the option to change it to any value, viritual button, device, can even keep the size, placement etc! Keep the bottom row (having static buttons / GUI is not a bad thing sometimes), but don't waste all that top space and function for values that the regular user does not need or use. It will only make it better ๐Ÿ™‚
  6. Well this is something i really don't like. I just bought additional dimmers, and did not know that V3 way on it's way, i would have waited. The reason i went for Shelly was the "openness" and updates but i guess the proof is in the pudding. What? "all the development for this device has stopped", we can buy this dimmer today as you say, it's not a legacy product! I have had the same sense or feeling of "we do it like this and that is it" from Shelly reading posts here and responses (and posting for legitimate features as a working RGBW control in the Shelly wall display) I understand that a company can't implement all suggestions and please everybody, but a standard function for "smart" dimmers is something else. We are not asking for a major update, this is a trivial thing to add and also why stop the development if a feature can be added that is useful? The people WILL buy the new products, but we wont stop using the old installed, as you say "This is not devices you switch out every year," If "old" things get updated the feeling of additional value and service you get as customer will make you come back for more things and recommend the brand to more people! If we "have" to get new products to get a feature that is withhold from a device (for no reason) that really leaves a bad taste. I like the Shelly products, but stuff like this (and non openness) make me look for different brands. I don't understand why brands do this, supporting your customers and devices will get you so much for free! Be different from everyone else Shelly, make this the brand everyone wants to use!
  7. Hi. Don't know if this is the place to post, please move this post if it is not. I was doing some testing today with scripting and using KVS to store data in json format. However, anytime we manually edit data in a KVS variable the type changes. This is a big problem as it switches from json to string automatically and then you can't change the values, as the value is over 255. Can we have a setting to force the data type in the KVS variables? Automatically generated json KVS value from a script = works, the encoded length is 220. As soon as i try to change a value, the value assumes that it's now a string, and the character count goes up to 449 = over the 255 limit. Then we can't edit and save.
  8. Well it's not so easy so don't sweat about it ๐Ÿ™‚ You have short circuit and overcurrent to consider when designing circuits. It doesn't matter if you have a 5A fuse for the internal relay, if you have a short circuit. The specification of fuses makes it so that it will still have around 300A - 480A going through the relay before the fuse blows. See my calculation above, *this depends also on the values that we have in our electrical switch board, so it (ik1) can be a lot higher also. A 5 amp fuse will limit overcurrent, due to attached load. That is, if everything works but you attach 2300W to a controlled outlet (10A current) the fuse (5A) will protect the internal relay, from overcurrent. That is good for overload only. With this conclusion you could make an assumption regarding including the overload protection for the relay: If the internal relay is controlling a light of known load (below 5A) then you don't need the fuse, as you would never have overload. If you control a wall outlet, well then maybe someone puts a vacuum in the outlet, then you need overcurrent (5A) protection. The only fault that could be is short circuit (in the light example), and the 5A fuse will not help with limiting that (ik1 short circuit) current. A side note (to Shelly technical department) There is an issue / error with manual, it doesn't show the correct electrical information, and should be updated. This will lead to faults if followed by someone without enough knowledge of electrical systems. 6kA interrupt rating can not be specified in the manual, it's not how that works. This (ik3 or ik1 short circuit current) depends on each individual local electrical switchboard, and is different in every switchboard in every home. If you use a fuse with 6kA rating in a system that has higher ik3 / ik1 than this (5-10kA) (not unusual in city centers or places near transformer in town) then you have fuses that can't handle the current of short circuits in the system! Interrupt rating: The interrupt rating for 3-phase and 1-phase systems (ik3 or ik1) is measured (or calculated) by the electrician locally on site. This is the highest short circuit current for the local electrical panel all the fuses must be able to handle and can not be specified or controlled in a product manual.
  9. Agree too. Give us 3 virtual devices so we can show anything, or give us 3 buttons for devices that we commonly use, that would be more useful. Keep the original as standard, but let us choose. @Rolf B. We can still have this as default, but give us the option to change it. It only improves the product.
  10. Hi! You are correct that these devices have a high start current (inductive). Your iron will not have an inrush current, that is purley resistive (unless it has a motor) This is a bit difficult to do, not that i can't be done possibly, but for other reasons. If the over protection in the Pro2 PM behaves like a fuse, then the fuse will blow and the overcurrent protection will not work. A MCB type C 16A fuse will blow between 5 to 10 times the rated current for overload. For a short circuit you can get 1000s of amps (6kA or 10kA) are the normal fuses used. You could also have different fuses in a house, porcelain (fast or slow), or MCB, type B, C, D so the device would also have to account for that. The Pro2 PM can't know if you are starting a vacuum or if there is a short, and the starting current of a vacuum can be in the 100s of amps! So somewhere there has to be a line for the overpower, overload protection to work. Have you tried using a snubber for the circuit as suggested in the manual? https://www.shelly.com/products/rc-snubber?_pos=1&_psq=rc+snubber&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Perhaps a soft start for the shopvac could help?
  11. I actually like the bottom bar, not a fan of the non configurable top bar though in non HA mode. It's quick and clear to switch between spaces, HA and the settings and get to tile 1. However, i do understand that some might want the feature, so a "swipe up" action to reveal it would be trivial to do. Keep the logo floating on top of HA, pressing that could reveal the bottom bar again too.
  12. @joq3 Yes, this is an easy addition to the dimmer. The Pro dimmer (to me) is more pro due to the DIN mount, inputs etc so this should not matter, i don't think it's limited by decision, but something that could be implemented but has not been yet. This is not a feature that would affect the Pro sales in any way, it's 2 different products for different usage cases. Max dimmin level is a trivial feature that should be standard. It would be great to get feedback for wishes / features, otherwise it feels like suggesting into the void and that gives a sense of that it doesn't matter what we say / wish for.
  13. Hello. I have asked this in the Shelly wall display thread and got an answer that some control option where rejected, but after using the display now for some months i think that the current implementation is not the best solution. I don't use the Wall display at all for RGBW control, I'm forced to use the app, and that is a bit sad, as the display is great and with small tweaks could be better. Colors: The thing with color selection is that every led stripe is different, meaning the output from the colors R G B W is different, so if i press the orange color on the color wheel for example, this is the color i get i reality in the stairs (almost white). (Red selected in the image, but orange is selected below) The actual color i want is down in the stairs, that is "orange" as in the color wheel, the colors get shifted in the photo. White channel is turned off. So the result is that i always have to use the app, so the wall display becomes unusable for controlling the color and light with the RGBW. Also, pressing for example RED, doesn't turn off the white channel, so the result is not RED, unless i also turn off the white. Sliders: Pressing the sliders results in the RGBW turns on / off instead of shifting to the pressed level on the slider. Updates to the RGBW control: Please implement option(s) to control RGBW differently, for me i could use different ways. The default can still be what is today, but with options to change to something else for better control. Here are 4 things that would be great options so we don't have to use the app: 1. Option to show favourite colors that are saved in the app and save colors directly in the display. 2. Option to show separate sliders for each color + saving the current color to favourites. 3. Option to show a color wheel, the way we could at least "tune" the colors, even though they won't be 100% to the wheel, but they are not correct now anyway ๐Ÿ™‚ 4. Option to select colors (with RGBW numbers) for all (or some) of the "dots" in the current implementation, eg long press on a color dot brings up an input with RGBW number, so a favourite can be saved. Option 1+3. Option 2 (but implement favourites as well, as in image above).
  14. Hi! Could we get a new setting in the next firmware update to the Shelly Dimmer 2 to be able to set "Maximum Brightness" value? Often the first 10% does basically nothing for the light intensity going from 100% -> 90%, so this would be a great addition to be able to fine tune the slider. It's also great for "syncing" different light sources to match, or if you don't want to use all the range of a specific light (decoration) and you only need a max of 50% but want to use 0-100% of the slider. For example, going from 100 to 90% uses 10% of the slider in this case, but the actual light does not differ, and the power change is less then 1 W.
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